When you feel like a new dining adventure outside of Beverly Hills, here are new top spots in three different neighborhoods within a short driving distance.
West Hollywood
The old Madeo space on Beverly Boulevard is unrecognizable since Gusto 54 Restaurant Group transformed it into Stella. An airy patio overlooks the West Hollywood Design District, while the downstairs now holds an open kitchen, glass-enclosed pasta-making area, a bar and the main and private dining rooms. Canadian chef Rob Gentile serves specialties that include “the rarest pasta in the world,” su filindeu, made with bone broth, pecorino dolce and braised lamb neck. Try the branzino carpaccio, carved wafer-thin tableside before drizzling with olive oil, Meyer lemon, a little sparkling wine, and shaved salt flakes from Cervia. The juicy Ibérico pork pluma is a standout dish sliced and served like a steak. There’s also a special steak menu for those who prefer beef. Olive oil martinis, another specialty, come with a choice of basil, lemon or jalapeño drops.
The former Palm space on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood is now the home of famed Uchi from Austin, Texas. The L.A. menu includes tempura with rotating vegetables, a full Toyosu fish list from Japan and Kaluga caviar from James Beard Award-winning Executive Chef Tyson Cole. Uchi recently rolled out an eight-course omakase happy hour, which might be the only one in town for such a great value (under $100). It includes sushi, handrolls and other plated dishes. Try the beautiful bento-style to-go boxes in three price ranges.
Just down the block from Uchi, French bistro Coucou from Venice has opened an indoor-outdoor spot. This new neighborhood gem is perfect for a romantic dinner on the patio or a seat at the bar for an apéritif such as a Coucou sour riff on a classic pisco cocktail with Lilette Rosé. Do not miss an order of the addictive fried olives stuffed with merguez sausage served with lemon labneh dip. The menu was created by a Bouchon alum Jacob Wetherington, with additional standouts that include zucchini beignets with creamy tapenade dip, steak frites, harissa roasted cauliflower and a classic French onion soup.
When you are shopping on Melrose Place and in need of sustenance, try the new Blessed Bread truck parked in front of Alfred Coffee. The gourmet toasted brioche sandwiches are stuffed with everything from eggs, chorizo and salmon to peanut butter, banana, and chocolate.
Just around the corner, Norma on La Cienega Boulevard is a great spot for brunch, dinner or happy hour with Aidan Demarest of Sofitel who brings inventive cocktails to the bar menu, and celebrated chef Jason Fullilove in the kitchen. His Santa Barbara stone crab crispy fried rice, lamb meatballs, and heirloom carrots are not to be missed.
Bonus tip: Just a block over in the old Ago space, look for indoor-outdoor Mediterranean newcomer Chez Mia on Melrose Avenue by the owners of Olivetta. The space was also designed by Tom Parker from Fettle Design, and features an outdoor bar with 500 potted plants, lemon trees, and plenty of banquettes with curtains to close off for private gatherings.
A Five-Mile Drive
Culver City continues to make headway for culinary excellence, and there is no better exemplar than n/naka. The female-owned, Michelin-starred establishment has undergone a massive revamp conceived by Tokyo-based Oyamatsu Design Studio. The meticulous craftsmanship of the signature kaiseki menu is the move here. This is also the only place in Los Angeles where you can find Xander Soren Wines, which are served in many Michelin-rated restaurants and hotels in Japan. For a new pairing twist, the California Pinot Noir, made by award-winning winemaker Shalini Sekhar, complements the delicate Japanese flavors such as yellowfin tuna.
Located in a 1920s Art Deco building on Melrose Avenue, The Benjamin Hollywood is a hot new superclub with an upstairs speakeasy bar, The Moon Room, with live entertainment and an outdoor terrace. The space was brought to life by Ben Shenassafar of the iconic streetwear brand The Hundreds, who also designed the chic staff uniforms. The menu includes upscale takes on beloved American dishes from Executive Chef Johnny Cirelle (formerly of Spago, Bestia and Bavel), including triple fried chips and caramelized onion dip, and the Benjamin Burger with New School American cheese, hickory sauce, grilled onion, house pickles and fries. Desserts include brown butter chocolate chip cookies served with house whipped cream.
The Tel Aviv-influenced Carmel on Melrose Avenue is another inspired choice for Mediterranean fare. Chef Asi Moaz’s famed hummus is a must-order along with a red snapper schnitzel and 72-hour fermented dough served with tahini, matbucha and Syrian olives. The freezer martini with vodka-infused olive oil makes a great pairing with many menu items.
At Laya on Cahuenga Boulevard, “Top Chef” winner Charbel Hayek of Ladyhawk at Kimpton La Peer Hotel showcases grilled octopus skewers and freshly baked pita with goat cheese za’atar. With two bars, you can also sip cocktails near the large Renta wall painting with a décor that evokes Greece or Tulum.
The global empire of celebrated chef Akira Back includes ABSteak at the Beverly Center and the Michelin-starred DOSA in Seoul. Now Back has opened Norikaya on the trendiest corner of Koreatown (6th Street and Western Avenue). The intimate, 20-person Japanese temake/small bites outpost showcases Japanese artistry as well as flavors and is quickly becoming one of the hottest tickets in town.
Downtown Los Angeles
For a unique mix of French Japanese bistro fare, head to the Arts District for Camélia, by the co-owners of James Beard Award-winning OTOTO and Tsubaki in Echo Park. Charles Namba has worked in classic French restaurants such as the Beverly Hills location of Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, and Courtney Kaplan hails from the beverage side at both Domaine LA and Bestia. Their latest collaboration is on hallowed, brick-paved ground in the old Church & State space.
Small bites include chicken liver mousse toast and cauliflower soup with XO sauce. The Croque Madame topped with a sunny-side-up egg, layered with gruyere and fried ham katsu is a standout. And Spaghetti Bolognese à la Japonaise is the perfect childhood comfort food dish. Finish the meal with a chocolate gateau with black sesame. For cocktails, try the milk punch with Miza Saga Barley Shochu and a Suntory Haku vodka martini with an iced sidecar.
Just a few blocks away, YESS is the brick-and-mortar spot housed in a warehouse-style space from Junya Yamasaki, who was a top chef in London. This minimalist, progressive Japanese restaurant has reopened with an approachable, izakaya-style menu. Start with daily sashimi or a sushi handroll brimming with fatty tuna and a few rounds of sake by the glass or bottle. There is a rotating binchotan selection of grilled meats, fish and vegetables such as eggplant with walnuts. The whole lobster katsu burger is a nod to the food truck this brand started on this very corner during the pandemic.
For anyone with a passion for a Southern-inspired, seafood-focused restaurant, family-owned Joyce on Grand Avenue’s Financial District should be on your radar. The menu was conceived by Michelin award-winning chef Sammy Monsour (formerly of L.A.’s Preux & Proper). The cornmeal-crusted Nashville hot catfish filets with buttermilk marinade are surprisingly light and can be ordered on a brioche roll or as a plate with coleslaw. Try the raw bar, along with the martini plus oyster and dollop of caviar add-on, fried quail, cast iron mac-n-cheese, and bourbon beignets with a scoop of Fosselman’s ice cream for dessert.
Not far from L.A. Live, Hotel Figueroa has opened a new Mediterranean restaurant Deme—named after the Greek goddess of the harvest and a nod to the hotel’s historic roots centered around celebrating and empowering women since 1926. Led by Executive Chef Blake Shailes (of Grandmaster Recorders and Eleven Madison Park), the menu focuses on the culinary traditions of the Greek Islands, Turkey, Lebanon, Cyprus and Israel.
For a treat after a museum outing, Dahlia by James Beard Award-winning duo Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne has a new afternoon tea service at the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel, designed by Kelly Wearstler with Mexican modernism and Moroccan influence. The tea program by TEALEAVES will kick-start the experience before a sampling of sandwiches from deviled egg to crab with crème fraîche followed by a few baked goods. Vegan options are also available.
