The watch market has grown from a niche passion into a global collector base that actually cares about movements, provenance, and the slow accumulation of pieces that will, literally, stand the test of time.
Beverly Hills sits at the center of this cultural movement. The epicenter is Rodeo Drive’s “watch corridor,” anchored by GEARYS Rolex and Patek Philippe boutiques, along with long-standing staple Westime. The area has become a quiet barometer of collector confidence, where waitlists form within hours of a Geneva auction announcement, and nearby estate sales feed a growing demand.
According to Statista Market Insights, the global watch market generated revenue of $126.9 billion in 2025, and the United States is the single largest national market, generating an estimated $21.8 to $22 billion.
Phillips has already reported a staggering $10 million in advance of all the season’s live auctions, on the heels of its third 100% sold-out watch auction so far in 2026. But where does one start collecting, or how do you develop your current archival pieces, making sure to make all the right moves for the right reasons?
Local Stalwarts
As the president of Westime in Beverly Hills, Greg Simonian is a household name in the world of fine horology. The stunning Simonian family-owned flagship on Rodeo Drive carries brands from TAG Heuer to TUDOR, and an exclusive partnership with Richard Mille CPO (certified pre-owned). Simonian, who recently returned from the Watches & Wonders show in Geneva, has witnessed a shift in typical collecting.
“As expected, the most requested brands are Richard Mille, Rolex, and Patek Philippe,” Simonian told the Courier. “But what I find most interesting are the independent brands like MB&F, H. Moser, or Greubel Forsey that are quickly emerging. Many watch collectors these days are more interested in the savoir faire behind independent watchmaking.”
Photo courtesy of Phillips
“What’s fascinating is that we are no longer speaking about a niche passion but a truly global cultural movement,” Leigh Safar, Sotheby’s global head of important watch collections, told the Courier.
“Collecting has matured. Today’s collectors are younger, more informed, and far more intentional. There is a pronounced shift toward discernment over volume. Collectors are refining, not just acquiring. We’re seeing a strong appetite for scholarship—people want to understand why a watch matters,” said Safar. She also noted that “geographically, the market has become beautifully decentralized.” And perhaps the most telling aspect is “There is a growing appreciation for individuality. Collectors are increasingly drawn to watches that tell a story—whether through design, provenance, or sheer rarity.”
Current Trends
Trends may come and go, but condition is paramount. “I cannot stress this enough!” adds Safar. “Originality, sharpness, untouched dials—these are the hallmarks of true desirability. Then, meaningful rarity. A watch should be scarce for a reason, whether due to limited production, historical context, or technical significance.”
Provenance also carries immense weight. “A watch with a story—documented, authentic, and compelling—transcends mere objecthood. And finally, beauty. Emotional resonance. The watch must speak to you. The greatest collections are not built purely on logic, but on passion guided by knowledge,” said Safar.
Photo courtesy of Phillips
Right: NEW Eternity by Tiffany
Aventurine Dial Watch
Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
Collecting Advice
According to Safar, the watches that endure financially and culturally hold significance, rarity, and desirability. Watches produced in small numbers, those with unusual configurations, remain highly sought after, and it’s not dictated solely by price point.
“A humble watch with exceptional originality can be far more important than a more expensive but compromised example,” said Safar. “Increasingly, we are also seeing strength in independent watchmaking—pieces that reflect creativity, craftsmanship, and a distinct point of view. Because in the end, a great watch is not merely something you own. It is something you understand, appreciate, and ultimately, pass on.”
Safar’s most important advice is to buy with conviction, not with haste and to network. “The best collectors are patient. They study, they compare, they wait for the right example. I would also encourage collectors to build relationships with specialists, with auction houses, with fellow collectors. And above all, collect what you love. Markets will fluctuate; tastes will evolve, but passion endures. If you assemble a collection rooted in authenticity and personal meaning, you will never go wrong.”
Christie’s Deepens Global Watch Network
In its 260th anniversary year, Christie’s in London recently appointed Tom Heap, senior specialist, watches, further enhancing its global watches network and expertise. Heap works closely with Christie’s international watches team to deepen relationships with collectors, secure important consignments, and contribute to the global sales calendar.
Heap said that collectors have always loved watches that tell a story—whether it’s a revival of a classic design, a limited edition, or a piece with historical significance. “What’s new is the growing focus on independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Kari Voutilainen, and MB&F, whose pieces combine technical brilliance with rarity,” he told the Courier. “At the same time, neo-vintage watches from the 1990s and early 2000s are becoming increasingly popular as younger collectors enter the market, drawn to designs that are both collectible and wearable.” Case in point, Oscar-nominated actor Timothée Chalamet has recently taken a partnership role with Urban Jurgensen in Copenhagen.
Photo courtesy of Cartier
Right: PATEK PHILIPPE
Photo courtesy of Phillips
Enduring Characteristics
Heap noted that collectors are always seeking condition, rarity, and provenance, and a watch should possess one or more of these characteristics. “A good example of this would be neo-vintage Patek Philippe pieces with unusual dials, as well as slightly more obscure references and early series. We can see this now through collector interest in 3970 and 5004 adjacent references.”
As one might expect, celebrity-owned or endorsed pieces hold a certain cachet for a collector as well. “Certain icons continue to dominate the collecting landscape: classic references from Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet—particularly early examples of iconic and significant models such as the Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona, Cartier Crash, and Patek Philippe ref. 1518,” added Heap. “Watches previously owned by notable figures or with strong historical connections also command significant attention and enduring value.”
Recent Watch Boom
Heap has seen a huge boom in watch collecting in recent years. For many, the gateway was sports models and stainless steel, such as pieces from Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. “I think we are seeing a general graduation and maturing of taste, looking toward independent watchmaking with makers such as F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and Charles Frodsham, which characteristically have higher levels of finishing, striking design and lower production numbers.”
New to the Luxury Retail Market
As for flagship brands in the luxury market, Louis Vuitton recently unveiled a new horological masterpiece in the form of La Fabrique du Temps, which aims to shatter conventional watchmaking aesthetics with its exploration of color and movement. The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata embarks on new adventures through contemporary high watchmaking, with unique horological automata and grand feu enamel. Taking inspiration from the house’s numerous artist collaborations, the dial design is characterized by the vibrant interplay of shape and form.
For pure bling, Swiss-made Eternity by Tiffany is a new watch in 18-karat white gold with an aventurine dial and handset with 12 diamonds of 12 different cuts from round brilliant, baguette, cushion, Tiffany True®, marquise, Asscher, heart, pear, oval, emerald, triangle, and princess, totaling 512 diamonds of more than six total carats.
Cartier’s traditional watchmaking blends into a sleek new design. The iconic Roman numerals have been preserved, but the classic guilloché pattern on the dial has been replaced by an embossed motif. The classic railroad minute track has been transformed into a line of dots, paying homage to a historic watch from 1922 that featured a dotted line on the bezel. Lastly, on the graphic, minimalist dial, Cartier’s secret signature has been integrated into a stroke of the numeral X. There are five new versions available in combinations of polished yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and diamond-set.
Collecting Upgrade
With more than 25 years of experience in the luxury and pre-owned timepiece market in Beverly Hills, Seth Grossman has built a reputation as a trusted expert among collectors and high-profile clientele.
Grossman launched Global Trading while still in high school, selling collectible Swatch watches from the 1980s. In 2004, he expanded into luxury timepieces by founding Essential Watches, where he cultivated a global customer base. Most recently, Grossman embarked on an expansion of 90210 Watches, opening its new location last spring on Camden Drive in Beverly Hills. “I’m thrilled to be opening our first brick-and-mortar shop in the vibrant Beverly Hills Triangle,” said Grossman. “This location allows us to provide a more personal, hands-on experience for our clients while continuing to offer some of the most exceptional watches in the world.”
Here you can find everything from a vintage Cartier to antique pocket watches, along with the holy trinity of Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. According to Grossman, the top-selling brand is definitely Rolex. “Steel Rolex sport models specifically are our bread and butter.”
Grossman’s clientele includes entertainment executives, prominent attorneys, physicians, celebrities, and dedicated watch collectors. “I’m offering competitive prices even though we are in Beverly Hills because I’m serving the world,” Grossman told the Courier. “Everyone is online, and I have global customers searching for the best prices, and they are educated on the timepiece market.”
Photo courtesy of Phillips
Pre-loved market and a podcast
For unique entry-level brands, the shop sources a variety of inventory through trade deals with loyal customers. “They have pre-loved their timepieces but are ready for an upgrade or just a change of wrist scenery,” said Grossman. This includes brands such as Panerai, Breitling, IWC, TUDOR, and TAG Heuer, among others. “Our clients might trade in something like three watches at a time to get a single watch they’ve had their eye on for a while.”
Grossman is willing to take any brand on trade as long as it’s Swiss-made or a Grand Seiko made in Japan. “I have a strong network of dealers all over the U.S. and the world who I can reach out to at a moment’s notice to fill an order for an exceptional timepiece like an A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, or Greubel Forsey,” he added.
Another aspect of Grossman’s business is consignment. “I love offering my customers consignment so that they can make top dollar when we finally get that specific customer for that unique watch. That way, I don’t have to take anyone to the cleaners, and both my selling customer and my buying customer are happy. The seller is satisfied to get the most out of their watch, and the buyer is happy to have found such a unique watch in the heart of Beverly Hills. It can be a great option for both lower-end pieces that aren’t in demand and also for extremely high-end pieces that might take a while to move due to the smaller customer base.”
For a deeper dive, Grossman and his team host the “Essential Watches Podcast.” The popular show blends engaging “watch talk” while showcasing some of the rarest timepieces in the world and has grown to more than 250,000 subscribers on YouTube. Recent guests include passionate watch collector and comedian Jay Leno, who also came to the store opening this past April in Beverly Hills.
Collecting What You Love
“Collecting is ultimately about passion,” said Heap. “It is an exciting moment to explore watches from celebrated icons to hidden gems and discover pieces that speak to you personally. While provenance, originality and condition matter, what makes a collection truly special is the connection you feel to each watch. Whether it’s your first acquisition or part of a long-term pursuit, the joy comes from learning the history, appreciating the craftsmanship and enjoying the narrative each piece carries. In short, collect what you love!”
